Bornholm, Denmark
In the middle of a northern European sea lies a landmass nicknamed “the sunshine island,” home to one of the continent’s top-rated beaches, fishing villages frozen in time, and a summer culture that rivals America’s Nantucket. No, this is not a Greek Island in the Aegean, or one of the Azores. This is Bornholm – Denmark’s unexpected island escape.
Just south of Sweden and north of Poland, this Danish island, home to 40,000 year-round residents, sees its population nearly double in the summer months. It attracts families from all over Northern Europe, bikers seeking freedom on the road, and those seeking a slice of summer paradise in the middle of the Baltic Sea. On this particular trip to Scandinavia, I was eager to get to know Denmark beyond Copenhagen, and spending the last days of summer on this island felt like the perfect place to start.
Getting There & Around
My partner and I arrived in Bornholm by plane from Copenhagen on a sunny September day. With limited time, we decided to take a 35-minute direct flight from CPH, rather than the longer, but more cost-effective ferries from mainland Sweden or Germany. The quick, low-altitude flight allowed us to visualize Bornholm’s unique location in the Baltic Sea. From the air, we saw mainland Sweden, and dozens of cargo ships, oil tankers, and private boats traversing one of history’s most iconic sea routes. It is no wonder that this tiny island was coveted by its neighbors for hundreds of years. It has been in possession of the Danish, Swedish, and German kingdoms, and was even occupied by the Soviet Union in World War II.
Despite its multicultural history, modern Bornholm is firmly Danish, evident by the island’s commitment to the country’s world-renowned bike culture. While visitors may opt to bring their own vehicles (by ferry) or rent a car while on the island, many cycling enthusiasts come to Bornholm to be car-free. Hundreds of kilometers of bike trails allow both experts and novice cyclists to explore the island’s charming fishing villages and dramatic cliffs. Denmark may not have mountains, but be sure to rent a mountain bike – even if you don’t think you need one. For a country known for its famously flat terrain, Bornholm surprises with a handful of steep hills, but the sweeping views make every climb worthwhile.
Where to Stay on Bornholm
Gudhjem, Svaneke, and Allinge are sun-drenched fishing towns with dozens of small shops, cafes, and harbor-facing restaurants. Each of these harbor towns offers a variety of accommodations, ranging from charming bed-and-breakfasts to high-end hotels to family-friendly campgrounds. These towns are where that local feeling of a summer village comes alive. Any of these towns would be a great option, but it’s worth researching hotel availability before making your decision.
We stayed at a charming, family-run hotel in Gudhjem, a fishing village on the north side of the island, open only for the summer months. The facade of Jantzen’s Hotel – a bright mustard yellow with a rustic wooden trim – matched that of the rest of the village. Our three days at Jantzen’s took us on an unexpected journey back in time, helping us imagine what travel was like before our hyper-connected world made information so accessible. The hotel felt more like a family home rather than a mainstay for global travelers.
The rooms contained large wooden wardrobes fit for a queen and balconies that offered a bird’s-eye view of the goings-on on the pedestrian street below.
The main dining room was set for what appeared to be a large family gathering, with long, wooden tables (and you know they are high-quality Danish furniture), a library full of books left behind by guests, games, and one shared television. One family was very adamant about watching their local nightly news, and we did not contest.
The glass-paned breakfast room overlooking the private garden was a particular treat. About a dozen tables were dressed in homewares you’d expect to find in a grandmother’s old-fashioned dining room, each with its own quirky yet classic mix of patterned tablecloths, plates, and mismatched saucers. It was the opposite of the sleek Danish design that the world expects, but somehow it made everything taste better. Adding to the charm, the hotel manager – a relative of the Jantzen family – greeted every guest by name and learned our beverage orders after the first morning. The house chef, also a family member, prepared warm bread and famous Danish pastries each day, served with jams made from Bornholm’s blackcurrants and gooseberries.
What to do on Bornholm
We spent our three days wandering the island’s narrow paths, walking our rental bikes up steep cobblestone streets, and tasting local delicacies. Whether you explore villages by car, foot, or bike, you will surely encounter an “honesty stall” or vejsideboder, where locals leave anything from fresh eggs to antiques for sale.
There are no attendants or hidden cameras at the stalls. To purchase, you’ll leave cash in a box or use a mobile payment method. Coming from the East Coast of the US, where leaving a backpack in a locked car is an invitation to steal, I was completely flustered by this concept. I later realized that this authentic community and local trust – even among tourists – are what make Bornholm so special.
Eating & Drinking
You cannot visit Bornholm without stopping at one of its iconic smokehouses, easily identified by their narrow chimneys and unmistakable aroma of smoked fish. Seafood lovers consider the smoked herring a must-try. If you’re seafood resistant (like me), do not be deterred – many modern smokehouses are set up like German biergartens, featuring indoor and outdoor seating, extensive beer taps, and non-seafood options like burgers. I recommend visiting Allinge Røgeri, so you can enjoy a beer and harbor views while your travel partner stuffs down smoked herring.
Throughout Bornholm, you’ll also find cozy cafes and fine dining establishments influenced by Copenhagen’s world-famous food scene. Enjoy the candlelight and hygge atmosphere at wine bar Vinøst in Rønne or the pub-like atmosphere at Allinge Havengrille. No summer on Bornholm is complete without Svaneke Ice Cream. Sourced and produced on the island, you’ll want to opt for a high-stacked cone with multiple flavors. If you’re feeling extra sweet, add a traditional Danish flødeboller, a chocolate-dipped marshmallow, instead of the cherry on top.
Nature & History
Bornholm’s diverse coastline offers swimmers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the Baltic Sea from its shores. The northeastern beaches, such as Sandvig beach in Allinge, allow for water access near the island’s best cafes and restaurants. As a Lonely Planet loyalist and beach lover, I was eager to check out Dueodde Beach, which the publication ranked #15 among the world’s best beaches in 2025. I remained skeptical that the southernmost point of the island would actually have the clear waters and chalky sand I was promised, but I was proven wrong. Dueodde had the purest, whitest sand I’d ever walked on and water in an impressive, icy shade of blue.
Unlike some other world-famous beaches, Dueodde was unassuming. Without Google Maps, we never would have found this list-worthy place. We parked our car in a nearly empty parking lot and changed into our bathing suits in a portable bathroom stall before making our way to what we thought was the ocean. We followed a wooden path that cut through a dense pine forest that eventually opened up to fields of dunes. There were no umbrella rentals or vendors hawking overpriced drinks – just wind, sand, and the Baltic Sea. Pack your suit, chair, and some snacks for a no-frills day at this incredible beach.
On the opposite side of the island from Dueodde is Hammershus, the largest medieval castle ruin in Northern Europe. Its dramatic clifftop view alone is worth the trip, but wandering through its stone ruins and corridors gives visitors the opportunity to envision Bornholm of a different era. Pair the castle with an exploration of the nearby national forest, Slotslyngen, or a visit to the lion’s-head-shaped granite cliff at Løvehovedet, for a full day of embracing the outdoors.
The island’s 12th and 13th-century round churches – Nylars, Olsker, Nyker, and Østerlars – served not only as places of worship, but also as fortified strongholds used for defense against the many groups that one fought for control of the Baltic. These architectural marvels that are unique to Bornholm feature intricate medieval frescos that offer rare glimpses into daily life and biblical storytelling from centuries ago.
Today, the churches are still remarkably preserved and make a great afternoon activity. At Østerlars,the island’s biggest and oldest church, you can ascend its medieval tower if you so choose, or simply enjoy the frescos from the comfort of the pews. Adjacent to the church lies a Sæbemageriet, or “soap market,” that features handmade soaps, local jams, Christmas ornaments, and a coffee bar. It’s a perfect place to linger while you ponder which island town you’ll visit next.
When to Visit
Bornholm is at its best from late May through early September, when the sunlight stretches well into the evening, and the island’s beaches, bike paths, and fishing villages feel most alive. July and August bring the warmest weather (65-75°F or 18–24°C), and the largest crowds. If you prefer a quieter time, I suggest booking in early June or early September. During our visit in early-mid September, most restaurants were still fully open for the season, but were winding down to close by October.
Denmark Beyond Copenhagen
If you’re a bike enthusiast or just simply love slow-paced summer life, Bornholm is the kind of place where a week can easily slip by. For travelers coming from outside Northern Europe, Bornholm pairs beautifully with Copenhagen – both because you’ll likely have to route through the capital city, and because the contrast of the two destinations reveals a fuller picture of Denmark.
Even when the sun doesn’t shine on this “sunshine island,” anyone can find joy in Bornholm’s timeless charm. The island may be far from Denmark’s cosmopolitan center, but it offers a different view of the country: one rooted in tradition, a slow pace, and simple living. It’s a version of Denmark that feels genuine and deeply authentic.